by Jess Spino

With an average surface area of nearly two square meters, your skin is your body’s largest organ—so it’s no surprise that covering it with creams, oils and serums in the pursuit of “healthier” skin has become practically a national pastime. With thousands of new skincare products hitting shelves each year, keeping up with the latest and greatest can feel harder than keeping up with the Kardashians—especially when every product boasts powerful ingredients promising to make you look and feel like a member of this famous family. But beauty is more than skin deep, a fact that becomes even clearer when you take a closer look at the ingredients in these so-called miracle products.

Skincare is Big Business
In 2024, the U.S. skincare market was valued at $27.8 billion, with an annual growth rate of 7.7% (Meiyume, 2024). Additionally, six out of ten consumers expressed a willingness to experiment with new skincare products (Hale Cosmeceuticals, 2024), highlighting how market growth is fueled by innovative ingredients and increasing consumer curiosity. Social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram amplify this trend, showcasing dramatic skincare transformations endorsed by celebrity influencers. These highly curated posts often entice eager audiences to “buy now” without scrutinizing the product’s ingredient list, further driving the industry’s rapid expansion.

It’s What’s Inside that Counts
Most health and beauty products contain a combination of active ingredients, which deliver the intended effects, and inactive ingredients, which serve as carriers or preservatives. For example, in a face cream, vitamins or botanical extracts function as active ingredients, while water and stabilizers are typically inactive. While many of these ingredients are harmless, some formulations include a cocktail of lesser-known substances that may have potentially harmful effects. Here are a few common ingredients to watch out for:

Parabens and Formaldehyde

  • Why They’re There: Parabens and formaldehyde function as preservatives, extending shelf life and preventing the growth of harmful bacteria, mold and yeast.
  • Why They Shouldn’t Be: Parabens are known hormone disruptors, posing potential risks for pregnant women, infants, young children and adolescents already experiencing significant hormonal changes. Even more concerning, long-term exposure to even low levels of formaldehyde has been linked to respiratory issues and an increased risk of certain cancers.

Phthalates

  • Why They’re There: Phthalates are commonly used in fragranced products to help scents last longer on the skin. They also enhance texture, spreadability and stability in oils, creams and lotions.
  • Why They Shouldn’t Be: Phthalates are endocrine disruptors linked to various health concerns, including reproductive issues such as fertility problems and fetal abnormalities. They have also been associated with hormonal imbalances, an increased risk of asthma and metabolic disorders.

Sulfates

  • Why They’re There: Sulfates are commonly used in soaps, cleansers and shampoos because they create a rich lather and effectively remove dirt and oil from the skin and hair.
  • Why They Shouldn’t Be: Sulfates can strip away the skin’s natural moisture barrier, making it more vulnerable to irritation and environmental stressors like sun and wind over time.

Oxybenzone

  • Why It’s There: Oxybenzone is a common active ingredient in sunscreens due to its ability to absorb UV rays and protect the skin from sun damage.
  • Why It Shouldn’t Be: Oxybenzone can penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream, raising concerns about potential long-term health effects. It has been linked to hormonal and reproductive issues in humans. Additionally, when washed off into oceans and lakes, it can harm aquatic ecosystems.

Essential Oils

  • Why They’re There: Naturally derived essential oils offer various therapeutic benefits and can serve as a safer alternative to synthetic fragrances, which often contain phthalates.
  • Why They Shouldn’t Be: While generally considered non-toxic, not all essential oils are safe for everyone. Citrus oils can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays, while oils like lavender and tea tree have been linked to hormone disruption. Additionally, certain essential oils, including sage, rosemary and basil, are not recommended for pregnant women.

How Do I Know What’s Safe?
Consumers have many choices when it comes to skincare, but navigating them doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Here are a few tips to help you choose products you can feel good about using.

  1. Read the Ingredient List
    Examine labels carefully, weighing the benefits of each ingredient against potential risks. Avoid products that contain known irritants or harmful chemicals.
  2. Research and Shop Clean Brands
    Many companies now prioritize non-toxic, ethically sourced ingredients. Brands like Ilia, Drunk Elephant and Beautycounter offer effective clean beauty alternatives. Even drugstore brands, such as CoverGirl, have introduced cleaner options in response to consumer demand.
  3. Utilize Technology
    Several apps make it easier to determine whether a skincare product is safe. The Environmental Working Group’s (EWG) Skin Deep app allows users to search for safety ratings by product name or ingredient. INCI Beauty lets you scan a product’s UPC code for an instant ingredient safety analysis and alternative product recommendations.

Your Health Is Your Responsibility
Not all skincare products are created equal, but awareness empowers smarter choices. By understanding ingredients and utilizing available resources, you can make informed decisions that support both your skin and overall well-being.